Basil

from the folks at the San Francisco Chronicle
SEASON'S PRODUCE
Basil

By Jeff Cox, Special to The Chronicle
Of all the culinary herbs, perhaps none is more useful than basil. Actually, I should say "the basils," because there are numerous types, of varying flavors and colors, some available in grocery stores, others you'll find only in nurseries or through seed catalogs. All basils are members of the genus Ocimum, and most are of the species basilicum. The common name of the herb is taken from the species name, which means "royal" in ancient Greek.

If you plan to grow basil, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. All the basils like the warm days of high summer. The cold, dewy nights of October and November usually fleck the plant's leaves with black spots, and at the first touch of frost, they collapse in a blackened mess of ruined leaves. They like rich, moist, well-drained soil, such as you'd put in a raised bed.

Here are some of the varieties you might come across:

— African Blue Basil: Believed to be a hybrid of O. kilmandscharicum and purple basil, this attractive ornamental is useful for bouquets and flower beds, although some people like its flavor, too, which is sweeter than common basil. When in bloom, it is highly attractive to bees. The leaves are purplish green, and their scent is strongly camphor-like. It is more cold tolerant than other basils.

— Bush basil: This is Ocimum basilicum minimum, and as the variety name suggests, it is a miniature plant that grows no taller than a foot, with small leaves and tiny, pungent white flowers perfect for scattering in a salad. Around the Mediterranean Sea, on islands such as Majorca, Sardinia and Sicily as well as the mainland, this little basil is grown in window boxes or in pots set near open windows. It's handy for the cook, and its herby smell is thought to deter flies.

— Holy basil: Ocimum sanctum is a bushy plant about two feet tall at maturity with broad, hairy leaves and a distinct scent that has been described as walnuts, bananas and Asian spice. It is commonly pulled in full flower and hung upside down in a warm, dark room until it's dry, then used in potpourris to help fix the scent of other ingredients. With the current interest in Thai food, holy basil is being used more in the kitchen. In Thailand , it's called bai horapa, and is used to flavor chicken, fish and vegetable dishes. For something new and different, try a zucchini stir-fry with garlic, soy sauce, mushrooms and hot chiles flavored with holy basil.

— Large-leaf basil: Also called lettuce leaf basil, this variety is Ocimum basilicum crispum. Its large puffed and crinkled leaves grow to four inches across and at least as long, and the plants reach about two feet tall. This is the variety to plant for putting up basil for the off-season. Its big, succulent leaves and fresh flavor make it universally used for pesto.

— Purple basil: Ocimum basilicum purpurascens is sometimes called opal basil because of the name of its most common cultivated variety, "Dark Opal." It is a wonderful rich reddish-purple, similar to the color of red cabbage. The plant is very pretty, with pink flowers at the stem tips making a color harmony with the purple leaves. Color and flavor a vinegar with this basil. Pack a measuring cup tightly with leaves and stems, put them in a quart jar and fill with good-quality Japanese rice vinegar. Cover the jar with waxed paper and a rubber band, and put into a dark cupboard for four or five weeks. Strain the vinegar off the wilted leaves and stems, and put it into clear bottles that will show off its light ruby color. This is a truly superior salad vinegar. Also try vinegars made with the scented basils.

— Scented basils: Look for lemon, lime, anise and cinnamon. Lemon basil originally came from Thailand , where it was used in a wide variety of dishes. It adds interest to lettuce salads and, like all the basils, makes a perfect companion for sliced tomatoes.

— Sweet basil: This is the common species, just plain old Ocimum basilicum. All the other varieties are descendants of this type. There is nothing like the smell of this basil — one of the most recognized fragrances of summer. The shiny green leaves are highly aromatic with a pleasant spicy odor and taste somewhat like anise.

— Thai basil: Ocimum basilicum 'Thai' is a beautiful ornamental as well as culinary basil that has a very sweet anise-like fragrance and spicy flavor with a hint of licorice. It's used extensively in Thai cuisine. The leaves are green at the base of the plant but may be purplish near the lavender/white flowers.

How to buy: Choose large bunches with freshly cut stems and pristine, vibrant leaves that show no sign of wilting or decay.

How to store: Because basil readily blackens when kept below 45 or 50 degrees, it's tricky to store, but here are a couple of suggestions. Store a bunch of fresh basil, stems down, in a glass of water with a plastic bag over the leaves. Secure plastic bag to the glass with a rubber band. Place in the least cold part of the refrigerator for up to a week, changing the water every other day. Or, place the bunch stems down in a jar of water and place in a cool room, changing the water every other day. This, too, should keep for about a week.

Although basil probably originated in India , it's the Italians who took the herb to their hearts and into their kitchens. This plant is a symbol of love in Italy ; a sprig of it presented to your lover bespeaks fidelity. When an Italian woman puts a pot of basil on the balcony outside her room, it means that she is ready to receive her suitor.

But it's not only the Italians who love it, basil has become one of the most popular culinary herbs today. Following are a few of our favorite ways to use it.

Beet & Goat Cheese Salad with Orange Sherry Vinaigrette
From Chronicle contributor Georgeanne Brennan.

INGREDIENTS:
3 medium-size red or yellow beets
1/4 cup chopped purple basil
2/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup sherry
1/2 teaspoon (scant) salt
1/2 teaspoon (scant) freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 to 4 ounces soft goat cheese
1 cup small whole basil leaves, a mix of green and purple
4 tablespoons chopped toasted almonds
3 tablespoons grated orange zest

INSTRUCTIONS: Wash the beets and remove all but 1/2 inch of the stems. Put the beets in a saucepan and cover them with 2 inches of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for about 1 hour, or until the beets are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Alternatively, rub the beets with a little olive oil, place in a baking dish and bake in a 350-degree oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until tender. When the beets are done, set them aside until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Slip the skins from the beets. Rinse and dry the beets then mince them. Place them in a bowl and add the chopped basil.

Combine the orange juice, sherry, salt and pepper in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat slightly, and cook until the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 cup. This will take about 10 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes, then mix in the olive oil and pour over the beets, turning to coat them well.

Divide the cheese into 4 portions and shape each into a patty on a sheet of aluminum foil.

Preheat the broiler.

Divide the whole basil leaves among salad plates, scattering some of them around the outside edges of the plates. Using a slotted spoon, divide the beets among the plates, placing them in a mound on the bed of basil. Drizzle with a little of the collected juices in the bowl.

Place the cheese about 6 inches under the broiler and broil for about 6 minutes, until warm all the way through. Remove from the broiler. Using a spatula, slide a cheese round onto the top of each mound of beets. Garnish each salad with toasted almonds and grated orange zest

Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Per serving: 275 calories, 8 g protein, 17 g carbohydrate, 20 g fat (5 g saturated), 10 mg cholesterol, 443 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.


Green Bean Salad with Olives, Goat Cheese & Basil-Champagne Vinaigrette
Beans cook more quickly in lots of heavily salted water, which boils at a higher temperature than unsalted water. This quick-cooking helps them retain nutrients, color and flavor without becoming overly salty. From Staff Writer Tara Duggan.

INGREDIENTS:
The Vinaigrette:
4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

The Salad:
1/4 cup kosher salt
1 pound green beans, or 1/2 pound green and 1/2 pound yellow wax beans
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved if large
1/2 cup pitted kalamata or other briny black olives, halved lengthwise
4 ounces aged goat cheese, cubed (see Note)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS: To prepare the vinaigrette, combine the basil, vinegar, salt and pepper in a bowl. Let the basil steep in the vinegar for a few minutes. Then whisk in the olive oil in a steady stream to emulsify.

For the salad: Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, then add the 1/4 cup kosher salt. Return to a rolling boil, then add the green beans (do this in batches if using two types of beans). Return to a boil — do not cover — and blanch for 2 to 5 minutes, until crisp-tender. Immediately drain, then plunge into the ice water. As soon as the beans are cool, remove from the ice water and pat dry.

Toss the beans with the tomatoes, olives, goat cheese and vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.

Serves 4

Note: Trim or retain as much of the rind as you like. You also can use fresh goat cheese, spooned or rolled into bite-size balls.

Per serving: 360 calories, 11 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, 31 g fat (10 g saturated), 30 mg cholesterol, 485 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.


Pomelo & Grilled Shrimp Salad
In this salad, the pomelo, which is more fragrant and sweeter than its cousin grapefruit, greatly enhances the smokiness of the grilled shrimp. If you can't find pomelo, substitute grapefruit. If your grapefruit is tart, use a little less than the recipe calls for. From Chronicle contributor Mai Pham.

INGREDIENTS:
16 medium-size shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 teaspoon minced shallots
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/3 cup carrots in matchstick strips, soaked in ice water for 30 minutes then drained
1/3 cup cucumber in matchstick strips, soaked in ice water for 30 minutes then drained
1 cup pomelo segments, separated into bite-size pieces
1/4 cup Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (see following recipe)
20 Asian basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 Thai bird chile, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts

INSTRUCTIONS: Soak four 8-inch bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the shrimp, shallots, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar and oil in a mixing bowl. Set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.

Thread 4 shrimp on each skewer. Grill or broil until the shrimp are just done, about 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.

Place the carrots, cucumber, pomelo, dipping sauce, basil, cilantro, chile and peanuts in a mixing bowl and toss gently.

Remove the shrimp from the skewers and add to the salad. Gently toss a few more times, then transfer to a serving plate.

Serves 4

Per serving: 155 calories, 8 g protein, 10 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat (1 g saturated), 41 mg cholesterol, 664 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.

Vietnamese Dipping Sauce
Nuoc cham is a must at every Vietnamese table, no matter what is served. You can use this condiment for dipping meat, seafood and vegetables, and for drizzling on rice. Although it will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator, nuoc cham is best when freshly made.

INGREDIENTS:
3 Thai bird chiles, or 1 serrano chile
1 garlic clove, sliced
3 tablespoons sugar
2/3 cup warm water
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
5 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons finely shredded carrots for garnish (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut the chiles into thin rings. Set aside one third of the chiles for garnish. Place the remaining chiles, the garlic and sugar in a mortar and pound into a coarse, wet paste. (You may also chop by hand.) Transfer to a small bowl and add the water, lime juice and fish sauce. Stir well to dissolve the sugar. Add the reserved chiles and the carrots. Set aside for 10 minutes before using.

Yields 1 cup

Per tablespoon: 15 calories, 1 g protein, 3 g carbohydrate, 0 fat, 3 mg cholesterol, 425 mg sodium, 0 fiber.


Eggplant Sandwiches of Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil
From Roving Feast columnist Marlena Spieler.

INGREDIENTS:
2 eggplants
Salt for sprinkling
1/2 cup or more extra virgin olive oil
5 garlic cloves, chopped
4 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained and cut into 1/4-inch slices
Handful of fresh basil leaves

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut the eggplant into crosswise slices about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt then brush with extra virgin olive oil. Grill for about 2 minutes on each side, or just long enough to soften the eggplant. When cool enough to handle, sprinkle with garlic, then top each with a slice of tomato, a slice of fresh mozzarella and a leaf of basil. Fold over and seal with a large toothpick, or a soaked bamboo or metal skewer.

Brush the parcels with olive oil. This may be done up to a day in advance and kept in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

Grill the parcels just long enough to brown the outside of the eggplant in places and melt the cheese inside. Serve right away taking care that the cheese doesn't ooze out.

Serves 8 to 10

Per serving: 215 calories, 6 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, 17 g fat (5 g saturated), 18 mg cholesterol, 41 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.


Basil Ice Cream
This may sound like an unlikely flavor for ice cream, but basil is a unique herb that works as well in sweet dishes as in savory. Creator Robin Davis suggests serving this with mango mousse pie.

INGREDIENTS:
1 cup half-and-half
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup (packed) fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons, plus 1/3 cup sugar
3 egg yolks

INSTRUCTIONS: Bring the half-and-half and cream to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Grind the basil with 2 tablespoons sugar in a food processor. Scrape into the cream mixture. Remove pan from heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes.

Whisk together the egg yolks and remaining 1/3 cup sugar in a large bowl until well blended. Gradually whisk in the warm cream mixture. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water). Stir until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Strain the custard into a clean bowl. Set the bowl over a larger bowl of ice and water. Stir until the custard reaches room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours or overnight.

Transfer to an ice-cream maker and process according to manufacturer's instructions.

Yields 3 cups

Per 1/2-cup serving: 210 calories, 3 g protein, 17 g carbohydrate, 14 g fat (8 g saturated), 153 mg cholesterol, 31 mg sodium, 0 fiber.