Eggplant
Eggplant
By Tara Duggan, San Francisco Chronicle Food & Wine Newsletter Staff Writer
We may not always think of eggplant as a summer vegetable, but it is at its best right now, when you can find firm, rotund, glossy vegetables ready for grilling, roasting or frying. A few things to keep in mind when preparing eggplant: It's important to cook it until quite tender throughout, because it's unpalatable when underdone. Though it's not such a problem this time of year, when sweet, local eggplant is readily available, you sometimes have to compensate for the vegetable's natural bitterness. To reduce bitterness, you can slice or cube the eggplant, toss it in salt, weigh it down and allow it to drain for at least an hour. Rinse, then prepare as directed in the recipe.
Glossary of eggplant varieties:
Black beauty or Globe. The most common eggplant available in the United States. Round with dark purple, almost black skin.
Italian or Sicilian. More narrow and curved than the Globe but otherwise similar, with an excellent texture for frying.
Rosa Bianca. A lavender-and-white striped round heirloom that has a sweet flavor and creamy texture when cooked.
Chinese. Long and narrow with a plummy hue, Chinese eggplant has thin skins and tender flesh, which means it takes less time to cook than European varieties.
Japanese. Similar to Chinese eggplant in shape and texture, these eggplants have a darker purple color.
White or Ivory. This uncommon eggplant has thick skin and large seeds, but a more delicate flavor than darker varieties.
How to select: Look for vegetables that are heavy for their size and most of all very firm, with shiny flesh. Soft spots may indicate a spongy texture or bitter flavor.
How to store: Keep refrigerated for up to four days.
Marlena's Truffled Eggplant Parmigiana
From Chronicle columnist Marlena Spieler
INGREDIENTS:
2 medium-large eggplants, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
Salt
Extra virgin olive oil
28-ounce can diced tomatoes + their juices (I'd suggest fresh -V-)
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 bunch parsley, chopped
Several large pinches of dried oregano
About 12 ounces mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
About 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
A few generous shakes of while truffle oil
INSTRUCTIONS: Sprinkle salt over each eggplant slice and set aside for 20-30 minutes. Rinse well, and pat dry.
Heat a small amount of extra virgin olive oil in a heavy nonstick frying pan. Add the eggplant slices in a single layer and brown on both sides. When all of the eggplant is browned, begin to layer the casserole.
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Make a single layer of the browned eggplant in a 12 x 15-inch baking dish that is about 4 to 5 inches deep. Add a layer of tomatoes over the eggplant. Add a sprinkle of garlic, parsley and oregano. Add a layer of mozzarella and a sprinkling of Parmesan.
Continue making layers, ending with the tomatoes, garlic, parsley, Mozzarella, then Parmesan.
Bake for 45 minutes, or until the top is sizzling and the cheese melt-y, crusty browned in spots and the dish doesn't look liquid-y.
Remove from the oven, let cool for a moment or two, then sprinkle with truffle oil and serve.
Serves 4 to 6
PER SERVING: 295 calories, 23 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 13 g fat (8 g saturated), 37 mg cholesterol, 789 mg sodium, 7 g fiber.
Bruschetta With Carlo Middione's Capunata
Also known as caponata, this Sicilian eggplant relish from Carlo Middione's "The Food of Southern Italy" (William Morrow, 1987) makes an inviting topping for bruschetta. You will need a 12- to 14-inch frying pan.
INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 heaping tablespoons raisins
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, cored and cut into small dice
1/3 cup coarsely chopped Gaeta or kalamata olives (the best place in town for the next four items are from World Harvest, imho -V)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped green Sicilian olives
1 1/2 tablespoons capers
1/3 cup + 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large eggplant (about 1 1/2 pounds), unpeeled, cut in 3/4-inch dice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup diced celery
1 large onion, cut in 3/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
16 Basic Bruschetta (see recipe)
2 tablespoons minced parsley
INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
Place the pine nuts in a pie tin and toast in the oven until golden, about 8 minutes. Cool.
Soak the raisins in warm water to cover for 20 minutes. Drain well.
Combine the tomatoes, olives, capers and raisins in a bowl.
Heat 1/3 cup olive oil in a large frying pan over moderately high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the eggplant. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the eggplant is well-browned on all sides and tender, about 15 minutes. If the eggplant soaks up all the oil, remove the pan from the heat for 5 minutes or until some oil drains out of the eggplant, then resume cooking. When done, remove the eggplant to a large bowl.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, reduce heat to moderately low, then add the celery. Season with salt and pepper and saute until slightly golden and soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the celery to the bowl with the eggplant.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, increase the heat to moderate, then add the onion. Season with salt and pepper. Saute until soft and golden, about 10 minutes.
Return the eggplant and celery to pan along with the tomato mixture, wine vinegar and pine nuts. Stir well and cook over moderately low heat for about 20 minutes, until the flavors are blended and the mixture is no longer watery. Cool to room temperature.
Just before serving, prepare Basic Bruschetta. Taste the capunata and adjust seasoning. Divide the mixture evenly among the toasts. Garnish with minced parsley.
Yields 16 bruschetta
PER TOAST: 230 calories, 4 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 14 g fat (2 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 293 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.
Basic Bruschetta
INGREDIENTS:
Dense day-old country-style French or Italian bread
Garlic clove, halved
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS: Cut bread into 1/2- inch-thick pieces about 3 inches square. The shape of the loaf will determine the shape of your pieces. They may be more rectangular than square, which is fine, but don't make them too big to handle easily. Preheat a broiler or toaster oven, or prepare a charcoal fire.
Toast or grill the bread on both sides until golden. While warm, rub one side of each slice with cut garlic. Drizzle with olive oil, using about 1 teaspoon per slice. Sprinkle with salt if desired.
PER TOAST: 140 calories, 3 g protein, 18 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 203 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
Roasted Eggplant Bisque
We fell in love with this soup's spicy-rich flavor many years ago while dining at Citron restaurant in Oakland. From Chris Rossi.
INGREDIENTS:
5 medium-size tomatoes
4 large globe eggplants
1/4 cup olive oil
4 large leeks, cleaned and finely diced (white and light green part only)
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons paprika
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
Balsamic vinegar, to taste
Fresh basil, cut in chiffonade
INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Brush 2 baking sheets with olive oil.
Cut the tomatoes in half and place them cut sides down on one of the baking sheets.
Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and place them cut sides down on the other baking sheet.
Place the tomatoes on the bottom shelf of the oven; place the eggplant on the top shelf of the oven.
The tomatoes are done when the skins turn color and they give off liquid, which will reduce and thicken.
The eggplants should bake until they are very soft, about 40 minutes.
Allow the eggplants to cool until you can handle them, then scoop out the pulp, leaving the skin and tops behind.
While the vegetables are baking, start the soup base. Heat the olive oil in a heavy 4-quart pot over medium-high heat.
Add the leeks and saute, stirring occasionally, until they caramelize slightly.
Reduce the heat and add the garlic, cayenne and paprika; cook and stir for a few minutes, taking care the garlic does not brown. Add the wine and 3 cups of the chicken stock; bring to a simmer. When tomatoes are done, add them to the pot along with the eggplant pulp.
Add the fresh herbs and bring back to a simmer; simmer for 10 minutes.
Working in small batches, puree the soup in a blender until smooth. Strain, if desired.
Return the soup to the pan; season with salt, pepper and balsamic vinegar.
Adjust consistency of soup with the last cup of chicken stock.
Serve very hot with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and the basil chiffonade on top.
Serves 6 to 8
PER SERVING: 125 calories, 4 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (1 g saturated), 1 mg cholesterol, 15 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.
Smoky Baba Ghanoush
The secret of a good smoky baba ghanoush is to roast the eggplant over an open flame, says Chronicle columnist Marlena Spieler, who contributed this recipe. She roasts the eggplant over a gas stove burner until charred, then places it into a bowl and covers it. The smoky charred skin permeates the eggplant. The longer you leave it, the stronger the smoky scent will be.
INGREDIENTS:
1 large eggplant
2 to 4 garlic cloves, chopped
4 to 5 heaping tablespoons tahini paste
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
Salt, to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin, or to taste
Garnishes:
Drizzle of olive oil
Sprinkling of cilantro leaves
Few shakes of hot sauce, or a sprinkling of cayenne pepper
A few olives and/or pickled cucumbers or peppers
Fresh soft pita bread, or chunks of French bread
INSTRUCTIONS: Place the eggplant directly on the flame if you have a gas stove, or on the coals of a barbecue.
Turn the eggplant every so often, until the skin is charred black, distributed evenly around the eggplant, and the vegetable looks deflated. Place the eggplant in a bowl and cover. Let cool for 30 to 60 minutes, or up to overnight in the refrigerator. Remove the skin and discard. It will be black and crispy and not nice, but the flesh inside will be delightfully smoky.
Save the smoky juices from the bottom of the bowl to add to the eggplant and tahini mixture. Chop the eggplant flesh, either by hand for a more textured result, or in a food processor for a smooth puree, and stir in the reserved smoky juices. Add the garlic and tahini, blending well.
Stir in the lemon juice, which will thicken when combined with the tahini. If the mixture gets too thick, add a tablespoon or two of water, or more lemon juice if you like a more sour taste.
Season with salt and cumin, then spoon into a shallow bowl and garnish with the olive oil, cilantro, hot sauce and olives.
Accompany with pita or other bread.
Serves 4 to 6 as a dip
PER SERVING (without garnishes): 70 calories, 2 g protein, 4 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 4 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.
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