Fork & Knife

Basil

from the folks at the San Francisco Chronicle
SEASON'S PRODUCE
Basil

By Jeff Cox, Special to The Chronicle
Of all the culinary herbs, perhaps none is more useful than basil. Actually, I should say "the basils," because there are numerous types, of varying flavors and colors, some available in grocery stores, others you'll find only in nurseries or through seed catalogs. All basils are members of the genus Ocimum, and most are of the species basilicum. The common name of the herb is taken from the species name, which means "royal" in ancient Greek.

If you plan to grow basil, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. All the basils like the warm days of high summer. The cold, dewy nights of October and November usually fleck the plant's leaves with black spots, and at the first touch of frost, they collapse in a blackened mess of ruined leaves. They like rich, moist, well-drained soil, such as you'd put in a raised bed.

Here are some of the varieties you might come across:

— African Blue Basil: Believed to be a hybrid of O. kilmandscharicum and purple basil, this attractive ornamental is useful for bouquets and flower beds, although some people like its flavor, too, which is sweeter than common basil. When in bloom, it is highly attractive to bees. The leaves are purplish green, and their scent is strongly camphor-like. It is more cold tolerant than other basils.

— Bush basil: This is Ocimum basilicum minimum, and as the variety name suggests, it is a miniature plant that grows no taller than a foot, with small leaves and tiny, pungent white flowers perfect for scattering in a salad. Around the Mediterranean Sea, on islands such as Majorca, Sardinia and Sicily as well as the mainland, this little basil is grown in window boxes or in pots set near open windows. It's handy for the cook, and its herby smell is thought to deter flies.

— Holy basil: Ocimum sanctum is a bushy plant about two feet tall at maturity with broad, hairy leaves and a distinct scent that has been described as walnuts, bananas and Asian spice. It is commonly pulled in full flower and hung upside down in a warm, dark room until it's dry, then used in potpourris to help fix the scent of other ingredients. With the current interest in Thai food, holy basil is being used more in the kitchen. In Thailand , it's called bai horapa, and is used to flavor chicken, fish and vegetable dishes. For something new and different, try a zucchini stir-fry with garlic, soy sauce, mushrooms and hot chiles flavored with holy basil.

— Large-leaf basil: Also called lettuce leaf basil, this variety is Ocimum basilicum crispum. Its large puffed and crinkled leaves grow to four inches across and at least as long, and the plants reach about two feet tall. This is the variety to plant for putting up basil for the off-season. Its big, succulent leaves and fresh flavor make it universally used for pesto.

— Purple basil: Ocimum basilicum purpurascens is sometimes called opal basil because of the name of its most common cultivated variety, "Dark Opal." It is a wonderful rich reddish-purple, similar to the color of red cabbage. The plant is very pretty, with pink flowers at the stem tips making a color harmony with the purple leaves. Color and flavor a vinegar with this basil. Pack a measuring cup tightly with leaves and stems, put them in a quart jar and fill with good-quality Japanese rice vinegar. Cover the jar with waxed paper and a rubber band, and put into a dark cupboard for four or five weeks. Strain the vinegar off the wilted leaves and stems, and put it into clear bottles that will show off its light ruby color. This is a truly superior salad vinegar. Also try vinegars made with the scented basils.

— Scented basils: Look for lemon, lime, anise and cinnamon. Lemon basil originally came from Thailand , where it was used in a wide variety of dishes. It adds interest to lettuce salads and, like all the basils, makes a perfect companion for sliced tomatoes.

— Sweet basil: This is the common species, just plain old Ocimum basilicum. All the other varieties are descendants of this type. There is nothing like the smell of this basil — one of the most recognized fragrances of summer. The shiny green leaves are highly aromatic with a pleasant spicy odor and taste somewhat like anise.

— Thai basil: Ocimum basilicum 'Thai' is a beautiful ornamental as well as culinary basil that has a very sweet anise-like fragrance and spicy flavor with a hint of licorice. It's used extensively in Thai cuisine. The leaves are green at the base of the plant but may be purplish near the lavender/white flowers.

How to buy: Choose large bunches with freshly cut stems and pristine, vibrant leaves that show no sign of wilting or decay.

How to store: Because basil readily blackens when kept below 45 or 50 degrees, it's tricky to store, but here are a couple of suggestions. Store a bunch of fresh basil, stems down, in a glass of water with a plastic bag over the leaves. Secure plastic bag to the glass with a rubber band. Place in the least cold part of the refrigerator for up to a week, changing the water every other day. Or, place the bunch stems down in a jar of water and place in a cool room, changing the water every other day. This, too, should keep for about a week.

Although basil probably originated in India , it's the Italians who took the herb to their hearts and into their kitchens. This plant is a symbol of love in Italy ; a sprig of it presented to your lover bespeaks fidelity. When an Italian woman puts a pot of basil on the balcony outside her room, it means that she is ready to receive her suitor.

But it's not only the Italians who love it, basil has become one of the most popular culinary herbs today. Following are a few of our favorite ways to use it.

Beet & Goat Cheese Salad with Orange Sherry Vinaigrette
From Chronicle contributor Georgeanne Brennan.

INGREDIENTS:
3 medium-size red or yellow beets
1/4 cup chopped purple basil
2/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup sherry
1/2 teaspoon (scant) salt
1/2 teaspoon (scant) freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 to 4 ounces soft goat cheese
1 cup small whole basil leaves, a mix of green and purple
4 tablespoons chopped toasted almonds
3 tablespoons grated orange zest

INSTRUCTIONS: Wash the beets and remove all but 1/2 inch of the stems. Put the beets in a saucepan and cover them with 2 inches of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for about 1 hour, or until the beets are tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Alternatively, rub the beets with a little olive oil, place in a baking dish and bake in a 350-degree oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, until tender. When the beets are done, set them aside until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Slip the skins from the beets. Rinse and dry the beets then mince them. Place them in a bowl and add the chopped basil.

Combine the orange juice, sherry, salt and pepper in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat slightly, and cook until the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 cup. This will take about 10 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes, then mix in the olive oil and pour over the beets, turning to coat them well.

Divide the cheese into 4 portions and shape each into a patty on a sheet of aluminum foil.

Preheat the broiler.

Divide the whole basil leaves among salad plates, scattering some of them around the outside edges of the plates. Using a slotted spoon, divide the beets among the plates, placing them in a mound on the bed of basil. Drizzle with a little of the collected juices in the bowl.

Place the cheese about 6 inches under the broiler and broil for about 6 minutes, until warm all the way through. Remove from the broiler. Using a spatula, slide a cheese round onto the top of each mound of beets. Garnish each salad with toasted almonds and grated orange zest

Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Per serving: 275 calories, 8 g protein, 17 g carbohydrate, 20 g fat (5 g saturated), 10 mg cholesterol, 443 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.


Green Bean Salad with Olives, Goat Cheese & Basil-Champagne Vinaigrette
Beans cook more quickly in lots of heavily salted water, which boils at a higher temperature than unsalted water. This quick-cooking helps them retain nutrients, color and flavor without becoming overly salty. From Staff Writer Tara Duggan.

INGREDIENTS:
The Vinaigrette:
4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

The Salad:
1/4 cup kosher salt
1 pound green beans, or 1/2 pound green and 1/2 pound yellow wax beans
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved if large
1/2 cup pitted kalamata or other briny black olives, halved lengthwise
4 ounces aged goat cheese, cubed (see Note)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS: To prepare the vinaigrette, combine the basil, vinegar, salt and pepper in a bowl. Let the basil steep in the vinegar for a few minutes. Then whisk in the olive oil in a steady stream to emulsify.

For the salad: Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, then add the 1/4 cup kosher salt. Return to a rolling boil, then add the green beans (do this in batches if using two types of beans). Return to a boil — do not cover — and blanch for 2 to 5 minutes, until crisp-tender. Immediately drain, then plunge into the ice water. As soon as the beans are cool, remove from the ice water and pat dry.

Toss the beans with the tomatoes, olives, goat cheese and vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.

Serves 4

Note: Trim or retain as much of the rind as you like. You also can use fresh goat cheese, spooned or rolled into bite-size balls.

Per serving: 360 calories, 11 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, 31 g fat (10 g saturated), 30 mg cholesterol, 485 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.


Pomelo & Grilled Shrimp Salad
In this salad, the pomelo, which is more fragrant and sweeter than its cousin grapefruit, greatly enhances the smokiness of the grilled shrimp. If you can't find pomelo, substitute grapefruit. If your grapefruit is tart, use a little less than the recipe calls for. From Chronicle contributor Mai Pham.

INGREDIENTS:
16 medium-size shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 teaspoon minced shallots
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/3 cup carrots in matchstick strips, soaked in ice water for 30 minutes then drained
1/3 cup cucumber in matchstick strips, soaked in ice water for 30 minutes then drained
1 cup pomelo segments, separated into bite-size pieces
1/4 cup Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (see following recipe)
20 Asian basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 Thai bird chile, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts

INSTRUCTIONS: Soak four 8-inch bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the shrimp, shallots, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar and oil in a mixing bowl. Set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.

Thread 4 shrimp on each skewer. Grill or broil until the shrimp are just done, about 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside.

Place the carrots, cucumber, pomelo, dipping sauce, basil, cilantro, chile and peanuts in a mixing bowl and toss gently.

Remove the shrimp from the skewers and add to the salad. Gently toss a few more times, then transfer to a serving plate.

Serves 4

Per serving: 155 calories, 8 g protein, 10 g carbohydrate, 9 g fat (1 g saturated), 41 mg cholesterol, 664 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.

Vietnamese Dipping Sauce
Nuoc cham is a must at every Vietnamese table, no matter what is served. You can use this condiment for dipping meat, seafood and vegetables, and for drizzling on rice. Although it will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator, nuoc cham is best when freshly made.

INGREDIENTS:
3 Thai bird chiles, or 1 serrano chile
1 garlic clove, sliced
3 tablespoons sugar
2/3 cup warm water
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
5 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons finely shredded carrots for garnish (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut the chiles into thin rings. Set aside one third of the chiles for garnish. Place the remaining chiles, the garlic and sugar in a mortar and pound into a coarse, wet paste. (You may also chop by hand.) Transfer to a small bowl and add the water, lime juice and fish sauce. Stir well to dissolve the sugar. Add the reserved chiles and the carrots. Set aside for 10 minutes before using.

Yields 1 cup

Per tablespoon: 15 calories, 1 g protein, 3 g carbohydrate, 0 fat, 3 mg cholesterol, 425 mg sodium, 0 fiber.


Eggplant Sandwiches of Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil
From Roving Feast columnist Marlena Spieler.

INGREDIENTS:
2 eggplants
Salt for sprinkling
1/2 cup or more extra virgin olive oil
5 garlic cloves, chopped
4 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained and cut into 1/4-inch slices
Handful of fresh basil leaves

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut the eggplant into crosswise slices about 1/4 inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt then brush with extra virgin olive oil. Grill for about 2 minutes on each side, or just long enough to soften the eggplant. When cool enough to handle, sprinkle with garlic, then top each with a slice of tomato, a slice of fresh mozzarella and a leaf of basil. Fold over and seal with a large toothpick, or a soaked bamboo or metal skewer.

Brush the parcels with olive oil. This may be done up to a day in advance and kept in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

Grill the parcels just long enough to brown the outside of the eggplant in places and melt the cheese inside. Serve right away taking care that the cheese doesn't ooze out.

Serves 8 to 10

Per serving: 215 calories, 6 g protein, 11 g carbohydrate, 17 g fat (5 g saturated), 18 mg cholesterol, 41 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.


Basil Ice Cream
This may sound like an unlikely flavor for ice cream, but basil is a unique herb that works as well in sweet dishes as in savory. Creator Robin Davis suggests serving this with mango mousse pie.

INGREDIENTS:
1 cup half-and-half
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup (packed) fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons, plus 1/3 cup sugar
3 egg yolks

INSTRUCTIONS: Bring the half-and-half and cream to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Grind the basil with 2 tablespoons sugar in a food processor. Scrape into the cream mixture. Remove pan from heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes.

Whisk together the egg yolks and remaining 1/3 cup sugar in a large bowl until well blended. Gradually whisk in the warm cream mixture. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water (do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water). Stir until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Strain the custard into a clean bowl. Set the bowl over a larger bowl of ice and water. Stir until the custard reaches room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours or overnight.

Transfer to an ice-cream maker and process according to manufacturer's instructions.

Yields 3 cups

Per 1/2-cup serving: 210 calories, 3 g protein, 17 g carbohydrate, 14 g fat (8 g saturated), 153 mg cholesterol, 31 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

Okra festival

Interesting little story on CNN about an okra festival called Irmo Okra Strut. Here is the story on CNN.

Frost

We received a light frost on Saturday morning when the temperature dropped below 40 degrees. Seems to have burned the winter squash down to the lower leaves. Struggling tomatoes seem to have survived. Okra is fine. Autumn greens were not touched. Now if it would rain, we could really get going for fall crops.

Hot Foot Day

Generally in the late summer/early fall there comes a day where I feel like my feet are on fire; when that happens, I know the heat is finally over and fall is come. I think I missed it this year because of my mostly indoor work life. I could smell the change a week or so ago but couldn't be sure. Last night settled it for sure. Low 50's and highs in the upper 70's today.

Ebb & flow. Glad of the chance to start over in the garden. Lots of fall crops getting planted, earth under my nails, feet dirty. The evidence of firefly nuptials glowing pale emeralds in the grass as I walk the dogs in the evening. Horseflies! Goldenrod living up to its name and all the wild sunflower clan bursting gloriously yellow. Diogenes, our Great Pyrenees, rambunctious and ecstatic at the moderation of temperatures. Soon, colorful leaves and snow.

Localvore Challenge

Interested in eating locally produced food?

Wondering whether Missouri could feed itself?

Want to learn more about our region?

Join Sustainable Farms & Communities, the Columbia Farmers Market, and Slow Food Katy Trail as we challenge Columbia and mid-Missouri residents to spend a week eating tasty & healthy food produced by Missouri's small farmers and entrepreneurs!

Locally-sourced food requires less fossil fuel to produce and transport, is likely to be fresher and of higher quality, and is grown and produced by the small farms and businesses that are an integral part of our regional economy.

Join us in exploring what's available around Columbia while eating healthily and supporting our local community, economy, and environment! You can take the Challenge to eat meals prepared from locally grown and produced ingredients, whether purchased from the Farmers Market and local businesses, or presented by local restaurants. This site presents all the information, listings, menus, and recipes you'll need to spend a memorable week eating the best Missouri has to offer!

Please be sure to register for the Challenge. We need the registration information in order to know how many people are participating and at what level, and to give us feedback to improve future events. We can also use our participation numbers as evidence of the impact of local food purchases on the local economy. We will not share your email, but will use it to keep you informed and updated about the Challenge. When the Challenge is over, we will ask you to complete a survey to give us valuable feedback. So be sure to sign up online!

September 9 Depositions

The first few are Asian greens from different areas that can be eaten in salad or braised.
Komatsuna "Summerfest"- Mild, tender, Japanese greens for salad and braising mixes. Uniform, upright plants with slender, fleshy, rounded green stems and dark green, rounded leaves.
Vitamin Green or Bitamin Na- An entirely different and delicious leafy green brassica crop. Band-sow thickly for baby leaf mix. For bunching, mature leaves, avg. 12" x 4", are smooth and brilliantly deep green. The plants are slow-bolting and will grow for a second harvest. The tender leaves are flavorful, but not at all mustardy. Tolerant to both cold and heat.
Hon Tsai Tai- Purple flower stems and buds. A Chinese specialty. The young plants soon branch and produce quantities of long, pencil-thin, red-purple, budded flower stems. Pleasing, mild mustard taste for use raw in salads or lightly cooked in stir-fries or soups. For multiple harvesting of tender stems and leaves. Can be spring sown, but yields best when sown June through October for harvest from midsummer through winter (in mild areas).
Maruba Santo- With Maruba you get two vegetables in one. The loose round vibrant chartreuse leaves provide a mild piquant mustardy flavor while the flat white stems impart a juicy crisp pac choi taste. The flavor is more subtle and complex than that of other greens and if cut small is great for mesclun mix.

This one is a European favorite.
Très Fine Maraîchère Endive- Large frizzy endive with very fine ribs suitable for late spring and early summer harvests. Known to chefs as frisée. 19th century French heirloom.

The following three, along with Sylvetta Arugula planted last weekend are especially good for the colder months and can produce through the winter with a little protection
Claytonia (Miner's Lettuce)-Cold-hardy salad green.
Quantities of heart-shaped leaf pairs, each "wrapped" around a white-flowered stem. Hardiest of the winter salad greens, can tolerate moderate frost and can be grown all winter in mild regions or in cold greenhouses. The taste of the young leaves is wild and fresh. Suitable for multiple cuttings.
Minutina or Erba Stella- Especially for winter salads.
A cold-hardy salad plant for fall, winter, spring, and summer production. Small plant with a rosette of slender green leaves. Provides a crunchy texture to salads without fiber. Flower buds are edible. Regrows after cutting, but succession sow for best quality and appearance.
Large Leaf Corn Salad or Mache- Miniature gourmet salad greens, popular in northern Europe, France and Switzerland. The dark green leaves form a fancy rosette and the flavor is delicate. For best taste, grow in cool weather.

Peppers

SEASON'S PRODUCE

Sweet peppers

By Tara Duggan, Chronicle Staff Writer

The curving, tapered shapes and autumnal-fire colors make them hard to resist at a farmers' market. Sitting next to traditional sweet bell peppers, specialty sweet peppers — from long and squiggly Italian frying peppers to cute and tiny Jingle Bell peppers — beckon for frying and stuffing. But one in particular stands out on Bay Area restaurant menus this time of year: the Gypsy pepper.

With its narrow shoulders and long, tapered shape, the Gypsy pepper looks more like a hot chile pepper than a bell pepper. That's because most hot and all sweet peppers are part of the Capsicum annuum species, which originates in Mexico. They aren't related to true pepper but to tomatoes and potatoes.

When Columbus came across capsicums in the New World, he called them pimientos (pimienta means black pepper in Spanish) in order to compete with black pepper in the spice trade, creating confusion for centuries to come. In this country today, when you're not talking about the spice, "pepper" usually refers to sweet peppers and "chile" to hot peppers.

Like other sweet peppers in the "frying pepper" category, Gypsies have a thin skin that doesn't need to be peeled, making them ideal for frying. They also are smaller and have thinner walls than bell peppers, so you can stuff and roast or grill them quickly.

Gypsies are one of the first "heirloom" sweet varietals to come onto the late-summer, early-fall pepper scene. Though actually a hybrid, it is mostly grown by small organic farms and are only available at farmers' markets and a few produce stores. Bell peppers, though available year round, are particularly delicious right now, especially the ones sold at farmers' markets.

Glossary of sweet pepper varieties:

Bell pepper. Like all sweet peppers, bell peppers change color and flavor through the season, and farmers pick them at different stages for different uses. Green bell peppers tend to be slightly bitter and great for Easter European-style preparation, while orange, red and yellow peppers are sweeter and delicious roasted and peeled. You can also find purple and white varieties.

Gypsy pepper. A hybrid pepper that ranges from green to red. When fully ripe, it has an intense sweetness and complex flavor.

Italian frying peppers. Long, multicolored peppers have an appealing bitterness when green.

Corno di toro. Meaning "bull's horn" this is narrower than a Gypsy and not as sweet.

Pimiento. This fleshy heart-shaped red pepper, the same one used to stuff olives and make paprika in Europe, also is sold fresh at some Bay Area markets.

How to select: Like most summer produce, peppers should feel heavy for their size. Look for firm peppers without any wrinkled skin or brown patches.

How to store: Keep, unwashed, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Zucchini, Pepper & Olive Tart Provencal

By Chronicle columnist Marlena Spieler.

INGREDIENTS:
2 onions, thinly sliced lengthwise
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced lengthwise
2 green bell peppers, seeded and thinly sliced lengthwise
1 zucchini, diced
1/2 to 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, crumbled
3 to 4 tablespoons tomato passata, or tomato paste or puree
15 to 20 oil-cured black olives, pitted and halved
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch of sugar if needed
9-inch unbaked pie shell

INSTRUCTIONS: Saute the onions in the olive oil until they are golden and very soft. Add the garlic and bell peppers and cook until they, too, have softened. Add the zucchini and cook until it is tender. Add the thyme, tomato passata and the olives; cook a moment longer. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary with salt, pepper and sugar. Let cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees-375 degrees.

Spoon the vegetable mixture into the pie shell and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the edges of the pastry are golden brown and the vegetable mixture has browned.

Enjoy immediately or let cool and eat at room temperature.

Serves 6

PER SERVING: 265 calories, 4 g protein, 24 g carbohydrate, 18 g fat (4 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.

Gypsy Pepper Vinaigrette

This delicious vinaigrette from Downtown restaurant chef David Stevenson would be great on any salad.

INGREDIENTS:
Gypsy Pepper Vinegar
1/3 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1 red gypsy pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon sherry (optional)

Vinaigrette
1/3 cup Gypsy Pepper Vinegar
1/2 tablespoon minced shallot
2 teaspoons water
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Pinch of minced garlic
Pinch of chopped fresh thyme
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

INSTRUCTIONS: For the vinegar: Combine the vinegar, pepper, sugar and salt in a small pot and simmer until the pepper is soft, about 5 to 8 minutes. Puree in a blender until very smooth. Stir in the sherry, if using.

For the vinaigrette: Combine everything but the olive oil in a bowl, then whisk in the oil. Season to taste.

Yields 1 cup vinaigrette

PER TABLESPOON: 65 calories, 0 protein, 1 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 56 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

Gypsy Peppers Stuffed With Manchego Cheese & Corn Over Greens

This recipe from Downtown restaurant chef David Stevenson serves 8 as a first course. The stuffing stays together well enough that you can place the peppers on their sides in the baking pan. Serve hot or at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS:
1 cup diced red onion
2 cups corn kernels
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 1/2 cups grated manchego, dry Jack or a similar cheese
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
8 red Gypsy peppers
1 pound mixed baby greens
1 cup Gypsy Pepper Vinaigrette (see recipe)

INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat the oven to 350° and oil a small baking pan or glass dish with oil.

Saute the onion, corn and garlic in the olive oil until soft. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool, then add the breadcrumbs, cheese, thyme and parsley.

Cut the tops off the peppers and remove the seeds and membranes. Fill each pepper with the corn mixture, pushing gently so the stuffing stays in place. Rub the peppers with olive oil and place in the baking pan.

Roast the peppers for 25-30 minutes, or until the peppers soften and collapse. If some stuffing oozes out, just push it back in.

Toss the greens with the vinaigrette and season to taste with salt and pepper. Portion the greens onto serving plates and top each mound with a stuffed pepper.

Serves 8

PER SERVING: 485 calories, 15 g protein, 25 g carbohydrate, 37 g fat (14 g saturated), 45 mg cholesterol, 439 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

Damn Hot Peppers

From Chronicle columnist Jacqueline Higuera McMahan, who loosely adapted it from a recipe from Michael Chiarello's book, "Casual Cooking" (Chronicle Books, 2002, 216 pages) written with Chronicle staff writer Janet Fletcher. They're great as a relish for hamburgers, sandwiches with melted cheese, with sausages or quesadillas, or stirred into ground turkey to make a great-tasting low-fat meat loaf.

INGREDIENTS:
1 1/2 tablespoons flavorful olive oil
4 green bell peppers, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch dice
11 jalapenos, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices, seeded, if desired (see Note)
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded, finely diced (or canned whole tomatoes, finely diced)

INSTRUCTIONS: Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add all the peppers. Stir until they are coated with olive oil and then saute slowly for 20 minutes. Do not let them caramelize or burn.

Add the salt and the tomatoes. Simmer gently for another 15 minutes. Let cool, then transfer to a glass container and store in the refrigerator.

These keep well for about 5 days.

Yields 3 cups

Note: To seed the peppers, use the tip of a paring knife so you don't get volatile oils from the chiles on your hands.

PER TABLESPOON: 10 calories, 0 protein, 1 g carbohydrate, 1 g fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 49 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

Marche's Red Bell Pepper Carpaccio

Although thinly pounded raw beef — the original carpaccio — remains popular, chefs also borrow the term for preparations with no sign of meat. Chef Howard Bulka of Marche in Menlo Park simmers thick, meaty bell pepper halves slowly in olive oil then peels them and flattens them until they look like paper-thin raw beef. Bulka recommends making this dish with only sweet, meaty red bell peppers from the late-summer harvest. The recipe calls for an extravagant amount of olive oil, but you can refrigerate the flavorful leftover oil for several weeks and use it in pasta sauces, aioli or salad dressings. See Appetease, below, for a feta cheese recommendation.

INGREDIENTS:
Pepper confit:
6 large, meaty red bell peppers
1 1/2 quarts extra virgin olive oil, or more as needed

Salad:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice, or more as needed
Sea salt
3 ounces baby arugula
2 ounces feta cheese

INSTRUCTIONS: Pepper confit: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Halve peppers; remove seeds and ribs. Arrange halves in a high-sided baking dish just large enough to hold them in one layer. Add enough olive oil to cover, or almost cover, the peppers. Put peppers in oven, reduce temperature to 275 degrees. Bake until peppers are soft, about 1 1/2 hours. Let cool in the oil, then refrigerate for 1 to 2 days.

Salad: Whisk together the 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Season with salt.

With tongs, lift peppers out of olive oil. Peel them. Divide peppers among dinner plates, arranging pieces so that they are side by side but not overlapping. Place a piece of plastic wrap on top of peppers; press with your palms to flatten them. Discard plastic wrap. Season peppers with salt and a generous squeeze of lemon.

Toss arugula with dressing, using just enough to coat leaves lightly. Taste and adjust seasoning. Mound arugula in center of each plate, or scatter over peppers. Crumble feta over all.

Serves 4

Because of the general nature of the recipe, there is no analysis.

Labor Day weekend plantings

Busy weekend planting. Here is what I got in the ground:

About ten varieties of lettuce,
400' of Red Russian Kale,
400' of Champion Collards,
300' of Early Mizuna Mustard,
300' or Osaka Purple & Red Giant Mustard,
300' of Bloomsdale Spinach,
400' of Cilantro,
400' of Early Wonder Tall Top Beet,
250' of Tatsoi,
250' of Sylvetta Arugula,
500' of various radishes including French Breakfast, Altaglobe, White Icicie & Daikon
500' of Purple Top White Globe Turnip

Have a bunch more to plant in the coming days including carrots, peas, parsley, Asian greens, different kinds of kale, collards, mustards, radishes, lettuces and other stuff too.

Eggplant

Eggplant

By Tara Duggan, San Francisco Chronicle Food & Wine Newsletter Staff Writer

We may not always think of eggplant as a summer vegetable, but it is at its best right now, when you can find firm, rotund, glossy vegetables ready for grilling, roasting or frying. A few things to keep in mind when preparing eggplant: It's important to cook it until quite tender throughout, because it's unpalatable when underdone. Though it's not such a problem this time of year, when sweet, local eggplant is readily available, you sometimes have to compensate for the vegetable's natural bitterness. To reduce bitterness, you can slice or cube the eggplant, toss it in salt, weigh it down and allow it to drain for at least an hour. Rinse, then prepare as directed in the recipe.

Glossary of eggplant varieties:

Black beauty or Globe. The most common eggplant available in the United States. Round with dark purple, almost black skin.

Italian or Sicilian. More narrow and curved than the Globe but otherwise similar, with an excellent texture for frying.

Rosa Bianca. A lavender-and-white striped round heirloom that has a sweet flavor and creamy texture when cooked.

Chinese. Long and narrow with a plummy hue, Chinese eggplant has thin skins and tender flesh, which means it takes less time to cook than European varieties.

Japanese. Similar to Chinese eggplant in shape and texture, these eggplants have a darker purple color.

White or Ivory. This uncommon eggplant has thick skin and large seeds, but a more delicate flavor than darker varieties.

How to select: Look for vegetables that are heavy for their size and most of all very firm, with shiny flesh. Soft spots may indicate a spongy texture or bitter flavor.

How to store: Keep refrigerated for up to four days.

Marlena's Truffled Eggplant Parmigiana

From Chronicle columnist Marlena Spieler

INGREDIENTS:
2 medium-large eggplants, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
Salt
Extra virgin olive oil
28-ounce can diced tomatoes + their juices (I'd suggest fresh -V-)
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 bunch parsley, chopped
Several large pinches of dried oregano
About 12 ounces mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
About 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
A few generous shakes of while truffle oil

INSTRUCTIONS: Sprinkle salt over each eggplant slice and set aside for 20-30 minutes. Rinse well, and pat dry.

Heat a small amount of extra virgin olive oil in a heavy nonstick frying pan. Add the eggplant slices in a single layer and brown on both sides. When all of the eggplant is browned, begin to layer the casserole.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Make a single layer of the browned eggplant in a 12 x 15-inch baking dish that is about 4 to 5 inches deep. Add a layer of tomatoes over the eggplant. Add a sprinkle of garlic, parsley and oregano. Add a layer of mozzarella and a sprinkling of Parmesan.

Continue making layers, ending with the tomatoes, garlic, parsley, Mozzarella, then Parmesan.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until the top is sizzling and the cheese melt-y, crusty browned in spots and the dish doesn't look liquid-y.

Remove from the oven, let cool for a moment or two, then sprinkle with truffle oil and serve.

Serves 4 to 6

PER SERVING: 295 calories, 23 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 13 g fat (8 g saturated), 37 mg cholesterol, 789 mg sodium, 7 g fiber.

Bruschetta With Carlo Middione's Capunata

Also known as caponata, this Sicilian eggplant relish from Carlo Middione's "The Food of Southern Italy" (William Morrow, 1987) makes an inviting topping for bruschetta. You will need a 12- to 14-inch frying pan.

INGREDIENTS:
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 heaping tablespoons raisins
3 medium tomatoes, peeled, cored and cut into small dice
1/3 cup coarsely chopped Gaeta or kalamata olives (the best place in town for the next four items are from World Harvest, imho -V)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped green Sicilian olives
1 1/2 tablespoons capers
1/3 cup + 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large eggplant (about 1 1/2 pounds), unpeeled, cut in 3/4-inch dice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup diced celery
1 large onion, cut in 3/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
16 Basic Bruschetta (see recipe)
2 tablespoons minced parsley

INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Place the pine nuts in a pie tin and toast in the oven until golden, about 8 minutes. Cool.

Soak the raisins in warm water to cover for 20 minutes. Drain well.

Combine the tomatoes, olives, capers and raisins in a bowl.

Heat 1/3 cup olive oil in a large frying pan over moderately high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the eggplant. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the eggplant is well-browned on all sides and tender, about 15 minutes. If the eggplant soaks up all the oil, remove the pan from the heat for 5 minutes or until some oil drains out of the eggplant, then resume cooking. When done, remove the eggplant to a large bowl.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, reduce heat to moderately low, then add the celery. Season with salt and pepper and saute until slightly golden and soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the celery to the bowl with the eggplant.

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan, increase the heat to moderate, then add the onion. Season with salt and pepper. Saute until soft and golden, about 10 minutes.

Return the eggplant and celery to pan along with the tomato mixture, wine vinegar and pine nuts. Stir well and cook over moderately low heat for about 20 minutes, until the flavors are blended and the mixture is no longer watery. Cool to room temperature.

Just before serving, prepare Basic Bruschetta. Taste the capunata and adjust seasoning. Divide the mixture evenly among the toasts. Garnish with minced parsley.

Yields 16 bruschetta

PER TOAST: 230 calories, 4 g protein, 23 g carbohydrate, 14 g fat (2 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 293 mg sodium, 3 g fiber.

Basic Bruschetta

INGREDIENTS:
Dense day-old country-style French or Italian bread
Garlic clove, halved
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS: Cut bread into 1/2- inch-thick pieces about 3 inches square. The shape of the loaf will determine the shape of your pieces. They may be more rectangular than square, which is fine, but don't make them too big to handle easily. Preheat a broiler or toaster oven, or prepare a charcoal fire.

Toast or grill the bread on both sides until golden. While warm, rub one side of each slice with cut garlic. Drizzle with olive oil, using about 1 teaspoon per slice. Sprinkle with salt if desired.

PER TOAST: 140 calories, 3 g protein, 18 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 203 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.


Roasted Eggplant Bisque

We fell in love with this soup's spicy-rich flavor many years ago while dining at Citron restaurant in Oakland. From Chris Rossi.

INGREDIENTS:
5 medium-size tomatoes
4 large globe eggplants
1/4 cup olive oil

4 large leeks, cleaned and finely diced (white and light green part only)
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons paprika
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
Balsamic vinegar, to taste
Fresh basil, cut in chiffonade

INSTRUCTIONS: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Brush 2 baking sheets with olive oil.

Cut the tomatoes in half and place them cut sides down on one of the baking sheets.

Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and place them cut sides down on the other baking sheet.

Place the tomatoes on the bottom shelf of the oven; place the eggplant on the top shelf of the oven.

The tomatoes are done when the skins turn color and they give off liquid, which will reduce and thicken.

The eggplants should bake until they are very soft, about 40 minutes.

Allow the eggplants to cool until you can handle them, then scoop out the pulp, leaving the skin and tops behind.

While the vegetables are baking, start the soup base. Heat the olive oil in a heavy 4-quart pot over medium-high heat.

Add the leeks and saute, stirring occasionally, until they caramelize slightly.

Reduce the heat and add the garlic, cayenne and paprika; cook and stir for a few minutes, taking care the garlic does not brown. Add the wine and 3 cups of the chicken stock; bring to a simmer. When tomatoes are done, add them to the pot along with the eggplant pulp.

Add the fresh herbs and bring back to a simmer; simmer for 10 minutes.

Working in small batches, puree the soup in a blender until smooth. Strain, if desired.

Return the soup to the pan; season with salt, pepper and balsamic vinegar.

Adjust consistency of soup with the last cup of chicken stock.

Serve very hot with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and the basil chiffonade on top.

Serves 6 to 8

PER SERVING: 125 calories, 4 g protein, 13 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (1 g saturated), 1 mg cholesterol, 15 mg sodium, 4 g fiber.

Smoky Baba Ghanoush

The secret of a good smoky baba ghanoush is to roast the eggplant over an open flame, says Chronicle columnist Marlena Spieler, who contributed this recipe. She roasts the eggplant over a gas stove burner until charred, then places it into a bowl and covers it. The smoky charred skin permeates the eggplant. The longer you leave it, the stronger the smoky scent will be.

INGREDIENTS:
1 large eggplant
2 to 4 garlic cloves, chopped
4 to 5 heaping tablespoons tahini paste
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
Salt, to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin, or to taste

Garnishes:
Drizzle of olive oil
Sprinkling of cilantro leaves
Few shakes of hot sauce, or a sprinkling of cayenne pepper
A few olives and/or pickled cucumbers or peppers
Fresh soft pita bread, or chunks of French bread

INSTRUCTIONS: Place the eggplant directly on the flame if you have a gas stove, or on the coals of a barbecue.

Turn the eggplant every so often, until the skin is charred black, distributed evenly around the eggplant, and the vegetable looks deflated. Place the eggplant in a bowl and cover. Let cool for 30 to 60 minutes, or up to overnight in the refrigerator. Remove the skin and discard. It will be black and crispy and not nice, but the flesh inside will be delightfully smoky.

Save the smoky juices from the bottom of the bowl to add to the eggplant and tahini mixture. Chop the eggplant flesh, either by hand for a more textured result, or in a food processor for a smooth puree, and stir in the reserved smoky juices. Add the garlic and tahini, blending well.

Stir in the lemon juice, which will thicken when combined with the tahini. If the mixture gets too thick, add a tablespoon or two of water, or more lemon juice if you like a more sour taste.

Season with salt and cumin, then spoon into a shallow bowl and garnish with the olive oil, cilantro, hot sauce and olives.

Accompany with pita or other bread.

Serves 4 to 6 as a dip

PER SERVING (without garnishes): 70 calories, 2 g protein, 4 g carbohydrate, 6 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 4 mg sodium, 1 g fiber.

Cucumber salad

Cucumber Peanut Salad

3 cucumbers, peeled, seeded, sliced in ¼ crescents
2 tsp salt
1 TBSP brown sugar (packed)
2 TBSP fresh lemon juice
1 ½ TBSP white vinegar
1 TBSP vegetable oil
2 tsp fennel seeds
1-2 teaspoons seeded, minced, fresh chili
½ cup crushed, roasted peanuts (or more)

Stir together cucumbers and salt, place in colander and drain 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse well and drain again.

Stir brown sugar, lemon jice and vinegar until sugar dissolves.

Heat oil and when hot add fennel seeds and chili. Lift pan off heat to avoid scorching and swirl the pan for 30 seconds. Continue to cook on low heat for another minute, stirring continuously and remove from heat, seat aside.

Transfer the drained cucumbers to a large, shallow serving bowl and pour the hot, seasoned oil over them, tossing well. Stir in the vinegar mix. Set aside at room temperature at least 20 minutes.

Serve at room temperature or chilled. Top with crushed peanuts.